It may just be my historical imagination run amok (as it tends to do), but I see traces of the momentous struggle between ancient Romans and their German antagonists still drawing … Toga v. Trousers: the RematchRead more
Wine Secular and Spiritual
The tiny Italian wine appellation of Boca shares some important features with elite neighbors a hundred kilometers or so to the south, Barolo and Barbaresco. Both employ Nebbiolo, a noble and … Wine Secular and SpiritualRead more
Still Over a Barrel
I’ve written elsewhere about the age-old romance between the wine vine and trees, and of the numerous ways in which the two have interacted over the centuries. It’s understandable that this symbiosis goes … Still Over a BarrelRead more
The Fox, the Hedgehog
and the Flying Winemaker
I won’t mention a name. But his story, or at least one part of it, is one I’ve never been able to forget. He was forty, or thereabouts, when bitten by … The Fox, the Hedgehog<br> and the Flying WinemakerRead more
‘Splain Me Some Wine
Wine talk is surely as old as wine itself, or, if not quite, then at least as old as wine whose source could not be taken for granted by the person consuming … ‘Splain Me Some WineRead more
Differences of Degree
An American’s first wine encounter while in Europe can elicit surprise. It’s not that Europeans keep the best for themselves — a strangely persistent canard. Rather, it’s the temperature at which … Differences of DegreeRead more
Geology is Destiny. Isn’t it?
There’s plenty of mystery about what’s mainly responsible for the expression of individual character in wine, but lend an ear to wine’s chattering classes right now, and you would think the matter has been … Geology is Destiny. Isn’t it?Read more
You Say Naughty, I Say Natty
Let’s Call the Whole Thing Off was a George and Ira Gershwin hit that made its debut in the 1937 film Shall We Dance?, sung by another incomparable duo, Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers (watch the scene here). … You Say Naughty, I Say NattyRead more
The Name’s the Same. – and Other Wine Confusisms
Planet wine is a heavily regulated old orb. Few people, I think, are aware that in addition to being subject to laws that govern the sale and consumption of alcohol, there are very … The Name’s the Same. – and Other Wine ConfusismsRead more
Hanging in there. Or not.
It’s a truism — perhaps by now a cliché — that wine is made in the vineyard. It’s a way of saying that winemakers who start with ripe, healthy fruit have most … Hanging in there. Or not.<br><br>Read more
The Taste of Others
How mysterious is taste? Let’s begin by observing that by time-honored consensus, there’s no accounting for it. Meaning, as we take it, that there’s no way to demonstrate conclusively why one … The Taste of OthersRead more
A Toast to the Toast What's really happening when we raise a glass?
The last time I saw the stunning Italian actress Virna Lisi on screen, she was having a wonderful time vamping it up as a reptilian Queen Catherine de Medici in the … <span class="entry-title-primary">A Toast to the Toast</span> <span class="entry-subtitle">What's really happening when we raise a glass?</span>Read more