IN WEDNESDAY’S BOSTON GLOBE FOOD SECTION we reported on our crawl of newish, higher-end burger joints in Atlanta, but last week we ducked out of town to snatch a few days in … Québec, au bar, en brefRead more
Of horsepower, megapixels, thread count, and alcohol in Napa cabernet
Was the deed done by Mother Nature, in the vineyard, with her little heat index? Or was it done by Mr. Winemaker, in the cellar, by means of a doubled-barreled roto-fermenter? … Of horsepower, megapixels, thread count, and alcohol in Napa cabernetRead more
Tokai: How they get the sweet in
AXA is a big French insurance company that also owns a number of important wine properties. The wine part of the business is run by Englishman Christian Seely whose blog I … Tokai: How they get the sweet inRead more
Drinking One Tier down
A WINEMAKER FORTUNATE ENOUGH to have a vineyard within a prestige appellation is entitled to the cachet the name conveys and earns a correspondingly high price for his wine. Another, whose … Drinking One Tier down</br>Read more
On whether red wine can ever be fish wine
WHEN suppertime rolled around last Sunday night and I had an open bottle of a favorite red wine standing by (2008 Closerie des Alisiers Hautes Cotes de Beaune), I decided not … On whether red wine can ever be fish wineRead more
Absent-minded Winemaking and the Romantic tradition
IF YOU HAVEN’T at least heard about the natural wine movement, it’s likely you haven’t been paying attention. If you have been paying attention you probably know that it’s an amorphous … Absent-minded Winemaking and the Romantic traditionRead more
Hautes Côtes de Vermont
IT’S EASY TO FORGET that at one time the celebrated vineyards of northern Europe were nothing more than wooded hillsides. The Romans, who generally took the long view of things, planted … Hautes Côtes de VermontRead more
The Clay’s the Thing
An email from Hamilton Russell Vineyards this week brought an item of interest. The star South African property has begun putting a small amount of its fine estate chardonnay into small, … The Clay’s the ThingRead more
Chardonnay with latitude
IT’S WHERE THE EVERYDAY meets the can-you-believe-it that most interesting things happen; where risks and rewards run high; where people who know better (or think they do) often fear to tread. … Chardonnay with latitudeRead more
Mineral rights
In his relentless campaign to build the reputation of California wine, Robert Mondavi liked to set Napa Valley against Europe in comparative tastings. According to witnesses, he would badger guests into … Mineral rightsRead more
Identical strangers
A friend of a mischievous turn of mind brought several wines over the other night all bagged up in brown paper bags. He challenged me to taste and comment on them. … Identical strangersRead more
Charismatic, enigmatic wines of Campania
WINE HAS ITS chattering classes too, and for some time now its pet subject has been something called terroir. Like entrepreneur or mise en place, terroir is a French loanword that … Charismatic, enigmatic wines of CampaniaRead more