IN MOVIES OF A CERTAIN KIND (the kind I most like) fog plays a prominent role. I’m thinking of films like The Third Man, Quai des Brumes, and Brief Encounter. Fog … The fog of wine</br>Read more
Author: Stephen Meuse
Michel Bettane on terroir
Former Classics professor Michel Bettane may be the most influential writer on wine in France today. With colleague Thierry Desseauve, he publishes Bettane & Desseauve’s Guide to the Wines of France. … Michel Bettane on terroirRead more
The wine cellar in your kitchen
THE COLLECTION of open wine bottles at left was shot in my kitchen this week. There are usually four to six there at a time. All are in the process of … The wine cellar in your kitchenRead more
Grapes, grains, and the priority puzzle
I GET ASKED which alcoholic beverage first passed our greedy little lips – beer or wine. Since it’s not a case of needing to have one before you can have the other, the first-drink … Grapes, grains, and the priority puzzleRead more
Not to diss the sip, but . . .
SHOPPING FOR WINE IS THIRSTY WORK, so sipping an ounce or two while you scan the shelves mulling over varietals and vintages can only make an already pleasant task more enjoyable. … Not to diss the sip, but . . .Read more
Wine as sign
THE PICTURE ABOVE ISN’T some abstract expressionist art you might encounter in a Soho gallery. It’s a thermal image of a section of the North Atlantic (Credit: NASA JPL). The warm Gulf … Wine as signRead more
When food satisfies – and when it doesn’t
THAT’S STANLEY TUCCI (left) and Anthony Shaloub as a pair of devoted but mismatched brothers running an Italian restaurant in the film Big Night. Primo (Shaloub) is a gifted chef who … When food satisfies – and when it doesn’tRead more
Please have snow and mistletoe and claret under the tree . . . .
THIS FOURTEENTH CENTURY manuscript illumination shows just-picked grapes being hustled from the vineyard and dumped into vats where empurpled treaders are already frantically at work. It was customary for medieval artists … Please have snow and mistletoe and claret under the tree . . . .Read more
Austerity measures
PACKING UP A CASE of wine for a Central Bottle guest recently, I reached back in to re-arrange a pair of wines so that the Argyros Santorini Assyrtiko wasn’t adjacent the … Austerity measures</br>Read more
Rocks in our wine,
or just in our heads?
IF ANYTHING CAN BE SAID to be genuinely innate about human taste it’s our appreciation and enjoyment of the flavors of ripe fruit. We came down from the trees already addicts … Rocks in our wine,<br/>or just in our heads?Read more
Wine and the city
EMILE ZOLA’S 1873 novel Le ventre de Paris (‘The Belly of Paris’) opens with a pre-dawn parade of horse-drawn carts laden with produce making their way to Les Halles, the city’s great public … Wine and the city</br>Read more
In Karl Marx’s youthful and spirited defense of Mosel wine-growers the foretaste of a revolutionary career
VINTNERS WITH PROPERTY in the steep hillsides that overlook the Mosel River between Trier and Koblenz have a worldwide market for their cooly aromatic, austerely-structured white wines. Today, growers there can … In Karl Marx’s youthful and spirited defense of Mosel wine-growers the foretaste of a revolutionary careerRead more