Today, most wine education takes the form of a guided tour of what we might call the Appellation Trail. Since appellations constitute the fundamental categories nation states use to organize and … <span class="entry-title-primary">On the Appellation Trail</span> <span class="entry-subtitle">It's a consensus style, not quality, that matters most</span>Read more
Author: Stephen Meuse
Don’t Just Chat Up Your Wine
The dinner party differs from the cocktail party in one very important respect. Hemmed in as you are by a place setting, it’s generally not possible to seek new company if … Don’t Just Chat Up Your WineRead more
Two Always Better Than One Wine education favors the multi-bottle personality
In Georgian England, three-bottle men were so-called because of the prodigious quantities of Port they consumed daily. It’s easy to see how, under these circumstances, dinner parties could (and frequently did) … <span class="entry-title-primary">Two Always Better Than One</span> <span class="entry-subtitle">Wine education favors the multi-bottle personality</span>Read more
Of Wine Transparent and Opaque
IS A RED WINE so deeply-hued you can’t see beyond its surface inherently of better quality than one you can peer right into . . . or even through? Wine marketers are … Of Wine Transparent and OpaqueRead more
The Origins of Connoisseurship
EMILE ZOLA’S 1873 novel Le ventre de Paris (‘The Belly of Paris’) opens with a pre-dawn parade of horse-drawn carts laden with produce making their way to Les Halles, the city’s great public … The Origins of ConnoisseurshipRead more
Eat your fruits and vegetables … Don’t Drink Them
Years ago I interviewed the doyenne of Americans involved in the Burgundy wine trade, the knowledgeable and colorful Becky Wasserman, for a story in the Boston Globe. We rendezvoused at the … Eat your fruits and vegetables … Don’t Drink ThemRead more
On the origins of sweet wines Having our fructose and alcohol, too
What are the origins of sweet wines? Evolutionary biologists tell us that our distant hominin ancestors came down from the trees already addicted to the sweet taste of ripe fruit. Grapes, … <span class="entry-title-primary">On the origins of sweet wines</span> <span class="entry-subtitle">Having our fructose and alcohol, too</span>Read more
The Drying of German Wine Milk Street Kitchen Radio
I find myself spending a lot of time in the wine corner at Formaggio Kitchen correcting misconceptions about wine —or perhaps I should say out-of-date-conceptions —meaning things that may have once … <span class="entry-title-primary">The Drying of German Wine</span> <span class="entry-subtitle">Milk Street Kitchen Radio</span>Read more
Fresh from the back of beyond This Week in the Wine Corner
THURSDAY JANUARY 19 3-6 PM – FRESH FROM THE BACK OF BEYOND Belgium-born France Crispeels (above) didn’t spring from a winemaking family so when in middle age she decided to throw … <span class="entry-title-primary">Fresh from the back of beyond</span> <span class="entry-subtitle">This Week in the Wine Corner</span>Read more
Sorting wine sensations Bitterness, astringency, tannin, and texture are related but distinct. Here's how to think about them.
My experience pouring in the wine corner for the Formaggio Kitchen clientele two nights each week has convinced me that there is no experience casual wine drinkers struggle to describe quite … <span class="entry-title-primary">Sorting wine sensations</span> <span class="entry-subtitle">Bitterness, astringency, tannin, and texture are related but distinct. Here's how to think about them. </span>Read more
What’s hot in the world of wine? The world of wine, that’s what The world of wine, that's what.
In 2004, independent filmmaker and ex-sommelier Jonathan Nossiter administered a grand cru skewering to some of Big Wine’s biggest wigs with his quirky, accusatory documentary Mondovino. In one of the film’s more memorable … <span class="entry-title-primary">What’s hot in the world of wine?</br> The world of wine, that’s what</span> <span class="entry-subtitle">The world of wine, that's what.</span>Read more
Final Exam We say adios to America's Test Kitchen with a quiz
If you heard the on-air piece, you know that this is the last wine segment Chris and I will do for America’s Test Kitchen Radio. So it seemed like a good time to see how much Chris has learned … <span class="entry-title-primary">Final Exam</span> <span class="entry-subtitle">We say adios to America's Test Kitchen with a quiz</span>Read more