IF ANYTHING CAN BE SAID to be genuinely innate about human taste it’s our appreciation and enjoyment of the flavors of ripe fruit. We came down from the trees already addicts to fruit sugars, the evolutionary biologists tell us, so it wasn’t something we had to acquire a taste for.
Fruity flavors were very likely the first thing we humans loved about wine, although that kick of mood-altering ethanol didn’t do anything to put us off.
You can admit this but still believe (as I do) that just because wine is made from fruit it doesn’t follow that it must be first and foremost fruity. This idea was the hobby horse of Robert Mondavi (see my obit here) who very early on in his career recognized that he could distinguish his California-made wine from that of Europe by emphasizing the inherently fruity character of the former. In comparative tastings he habitually badgered guests into conceding that while European wine was often good California wines were “just a bit fruitier” — and, by implication, just a bit better.